Art Deco Schless Brod & Co. Platinum and Diamond “Horseshoe” Ring

A striking expression of early Art Deco design, this circa 1920 diamond “Horseshoe” ring by Schless Brod & Co. captures the bold optimism and geometric elegance that defined the dawn of the Jazz Age. Founded in New York during the early 20th century, Schless Brod & Co. became known for producing finely crafted diamond and platinum jewelry during a transformative period in American design. Their work reflected the growing influence of Art Deco aesthetics, blending precise craftsmanship, symbolic motifs, and the era’s fascination with modern luxury. Today, signed Schless Brod pieces remain admired for their quality, rarity, and distinctive period character.

Crafted in platinum stamped “10% IRID PLAT.” — an iridium alloy prized for its strength and durability — the ring exemplifies the technical innovation of the period, when platinum became the preferred metal for fine jewelry due to its ability to support delicate yet durable settings. This advancement allowed jewelers to create lighter, more intricate mountings that enhanced the brilliance of diamonds while maintaining exceptional structural integrity.

At its center rests an old European cut diamond weighing approximately 0.25 carat, displaying the distinctive hand-cut charm and romantic glow treasured in antique stones. Surrounding it are six sparkling single cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.15 carat, graded F–G color with SI–I clarity, creating a graceful balance of brilliance and symmetry characteristic of the emerging Art Deco aesthetic.

The ring’s beautifully engraved horseshoe motif along the shoulders adds both artistry and symbolism. Long regarded as an emblem of luck, protection, and prosperity, the horseshoe became a beloved design element in jewelry of the period, particularly during the years following World War I, when themes of fortune and renewal resonated deeply. Delicate hand engraving further highlights the exceptional workmanship synonymous with fine American jewelers of the early 20th century.

Elegant yet distinctive, this ring is more than a beautifully preserved antique — it is a wearable piece of history that reflects the transition from the soft romance of the Edwardian era into the bold sophistication of Art Deco design.

• Circa 1920

• Platinum stamped “10% IRID PLAT.”

•  Schless Brod & Co. makers mark

• 1 old European cut diamond weighing approximately 0.25 carat, graded I color, I1 clarity, accented by 6 single cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.15 carat total, graded F-G color, SI-I clarity

• Size 5 ¼, resizable

• Estimated gross weight: 3.4 grams

• Very good vintage condition, wear in the form of minor scratches, visible wear in filigree engraving, wear appropriate with age